Blown Rear Engine Main Seal
Hi; new here and need help. Have a 70 GS 455 with a blown rear engine main seal. Can I drop the transmission to replace it or do I have to pull the motor. Pllleeeease tell me I can do it by pulling tranny down!!!
Also, fuel gauge decided to stick on FULL the last fill up. Forum states it could be a ground wire in the trunk or on top of the gas tank. Where in the trunk is the ground wire. I looked yesterday and found several "wires" so just want to learn before I got touching!
Also, fuel gauge decided to stick on FULL the last fill up. Forum states it could be a ground wire in the trunk or on top of the gas tank. Where in the trunk is the ground wire. I looked yesterday and found several "wires" so just want to learn before I got touching!
Looks like some good info here, seems to have replacement 2 piece seal https://www.teambuick.com/forums/sho...al-Replacement.
If gauge stuck may also be sticking float problem. Try with maybe 1/4 tank of gas tapping on tank at various areas with rubber mallet. Vibration may free rheostat, the entire fuel sending unit is on grounded side of circuit to gauge. If gauge is pegged seems that part of circuit is active IMO, otherwise would be @ empty w/ignition on or off I'd suspect with bad ground......
Oh too I would try some of the seal repair first. Supposed to recondition old seals and make supple again. They get hardened with age and leak. If worn or torn of coarse- not much help there.
If gauge stuck may also be sticking float problem. Try with maybe 1/4 tank of gas tapping on tank at various areas with rubber mallet. Vibration may free rheostat, the entire fuel sending unit is on grounded side of circuit to gauge. If gauge is pegged seems that part of circuit is active IMO, otherwise would be @ empty w/ignition on or off I'd suspect with bad ground......
Oh too I would try some of the seal repair first. Supposed to recondition old seals and make supple again. They get hardened with age and leak. If worn or torn of coarse- not much help there.
Last edited by Rich B.; May 9, 2018 at 09:06 AM.
Your welcome and roger that on additives. Only thing is one has absolutely nothing to lose by trying first (may work). They're much better these days than a decade or so back.
Our furnace was leaking some, thirty years old now. Take care of myself and I used the GUNK furnace sealer. Those are put together like the old fashioned steam radiators with bolted together plates. It worked excellent, no leaks and used maybe a pint container. Also set water temp up to 200deg. as they're more efficient even at the higher temps. My point is they'll all tell you after 20 years due for new furnace. Not really, still like brand new, will have to wait a bit longer to make any money selling me replacement lol.
Our furnace was leaking some, thirty years old now. Take care of myself and I used the GUNK furnace sealer. Those are put together like the old fashioned steam radiators with bolted together plates. It worked excellent, no leaks and used maybe a pint container. Also set water temp up to 200deg. as they're more efficient even at the higher temps. My point is they'll all tell you after 20 years due for new furnace. Not really, still like brand new, will have to wait a bit longer to make any money selling me replacement lol.
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