Did forum search and read past posts. 95 Lesabre, 62,000mi. actual, one owner. 2 weeks after a repair shop tuneup, new plugs and spark plug wires, the car started loosing power as in one cylinder dropped or retarded ignition. That developed into TEMP, VOLTAGE, and sometimes Engine light flashing(RELAYS CHATTERING in sync with lights) OPEN AND CLOSE and more power lost, engine still run and provide power sporadically. It would always get us back home and to the repair shop. Then it started dying and you could throw it into neutral and get a restart and it would either run FINE or limp home.
Last time shop contacted other shops as car will not give a code or one that is correct. To early of a OBD model. They kept it 3 weeks and went through every ground spot, supposedly, that they could as that is what the general consensus was. On second trip to shop I pulled over and 2&4, SEPARATE COILS, were not firing. Later on, on other occasions when it felt like no power and engine firing intermittently, LIGHTS FLASHING, pulling off spark plug wires from coil pack showed all were firing. Engine ran rough like firing out of order and exhaust smelled of gas and rotten egg. SHOP SAID THEY COULD NOT DO ANYTHING ELSE UNTIL IT DIED FOR GOOD AND WOULD NOT RESTART. Yes, by now I am sure Cat is shot.
Fast forward: I pulled off all coils and ignition module. Had it tested twice and it tested good. Cleaned it, corrosion on it, anyway, and reinstalled everything. STARTED and ran fine in driveway. SHUTDOWN w/o shifting through gears or test drive. Next day, I went out, car never moved or started again and when I put the keys in and turned it to run position where all the dash lights light, before I could get it to the CRANK position, the TEMP,VOLTAGE, and ENGINE light went to flashing, RELAYS CHATTERING, like they did while driving it earlier. It will start, but now again runs rough, and exhaust stinks. NOTE- exhaust smelled just fine after I attached the clean IM and coil pack and it started right up and ran sitting for a least 4 minutes.
Computer can be had for about $129, or should I try another shop. $90/hr. labor at independent and higher at dealership.
Anyone have this before?

 

This sounds like a bad negative battery connection, possibly positive. The circuits are attempting to stay active the best they can through secondary means and high (intermittent) resistance has developed. As voltage leaves batt. on the negative cable, returns on positive.

 

Thanks, I will check the neg. Battery connection again

 

But you know, nothing is mentioned if all the banshees are there due to a depleted battery? Would imagine that was the first thing replaced. Or voltage test while motor is running to check if alternator is charging even?

Was an old hot rodder trick to disconnect alternator and run on battery for horsepower gain. Have to look that one up now lol......

Wait a minute- Generators were used up until around 1960 when Chrysler was first to switchover. Here we go under "belts be gone", probably opened a can of squigglies here. http://www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-...aster-hot-rod/

 

Definitely not a good idea to run engine with battery cable disconnected.
Why,, without battery load alt will run full and self destruct, definitely a NO-NO !

You might try a forced reset, that is by removing the battery negative cable from the battery and holding or connecting it to the positive battery cable end for about 2 minutes. This will allow the computer to lose any adaptive memory which could include some gremlins. This will also cause the loss of radio stations, seat programming etc, that will need to be reset after the negative cable is reconnected. Upon starting the engine do not touch the throttle pedal so it can relearn idle control . Allow it to idle for a few minutes , then see if there is any change. Sometimes this will get rid of multiple unexplainable problems.