Just got this ride for $1,000 from my dad.
137K miles, drivers rear window only goes down, gets a little warm when sitting in traffic, PRND321/Odometer out, fuel gauge pegged on full 24/7, ABS kicks on frequently.

My dad has replaced the LIM gaskets, radiator, blower motor, drivers switch panel, installed new snow tires, front struts and front wheel hubs.

I've picked up a few parts and done some research on how to fix what.

Here are some little parts i've picked up for it. A coupler so i can get the muffler back on, that was $4.13 along with a clamp that was $3.89. I'm going to get my friend to weld the coupler to the muffler as its still very solid then clamp it right back on.
I got a 5 pack of resistors to fix the PRND321/odometer readout, that was $1.49 from Radioshack.
I found a local company here on EBay called prime choice, they sell the rear hub assemblys' to fix the ABS issue for $20.43 each. Since its a just a car i don't mind cheaping out here, plus they seem easy to replace. This same company sells a fuel module which i also need due to the fuel gauge not working. This module is $44.73, i'm sure it won't be wicked accurate, but as long as its in a vicinity. I will purchase these tomorrow.
Also picked up a oil filter, its got about 1K more miles till it needs a change, so i will be ready when the time comes.

You can see how the inlet of the muffler rotted off.


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Well i've fixed the PRND321/Odometer. Pulled the cluster out and i could see where the 4 resistors were, but one had fallen out. I brushed the other three with my fingers and they fell right out.
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I soldered the radio shack units in the best i could. Hard with sausages as fingers, but it looks mediocre. No one will see it.
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Here is the finished unit, working digital readout for $1.49 and maybe 40 minutes of my time.
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Pics of the new fuel module and rear hubs.
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Swapped out the air filter over lunch today. Was pretty dirty.
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Got a lot of progress done on the Century last night. Got rear wheel hub assembly's replaced. Found one of the rear shoes cracked and the drums are rotted badly. So this will need attention soon.
Also swapped out the fuel module, which was a little more involved than i thought due to the fact its not plug an play. The aftermarket modules come with an upgraded harness that you have to splice in. Once you splice it in you realize you cant connect the connector to the module because their are 2 large prongs on the lock ring that stick up right in the way. Had to grind those down as much as i could. So far so good. The tank was pretty full, so the gauge is just off the full mark, so its definitely reading different than before when it was pegged full. I haven't felt any ABS pulsation yet either.

 

Here is a picture of the car that i took this morning before work:
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Not sure If I see it, did you also get the fuel filter thats just in front of the rear drivers side tire? 02 and spark plugs are also a great way to get you some more MPG. Cabin air filter is also another spot simple but overlooked but beware if you have pollen allergies. Once you take the cowl off from under the wipers take a pic of the black ramp looking piece so you know how it goes back when you re instal the new filter. Those 4 resistors are the ones that have the most issues. There are a few more on the left side with a few blank spots open. those were for the regal with tach and dic display.

 

Just an update,

Car has been sold. About 1.5 months ago I was driving a long and the trans started shifting very hard. Limped to work and checked the fluid, it was burnt and the stick was covered with grey metallic stuff. Ended up selling the car for $600.

Total loss, bought the car for 1K, added about $400 in parts. Out $800 after trans failure. Was pretty mad. Went out a few days later and bought a 2011 f150 fx4.

 

Yeah I know the feeling from putting money into mines just before I couldn't anymore. At least when I got rearended I got some of it back. Was that the original trans fluid from the assembly line? My brochure says don't change it for the 1st 100k miles but that is crap. GM tends to exagerate how long a fluid should last as my manual trans lifetime fluid has reached its end of life at 10k.

 

No the fluid was not OEM. My dad had it changed at a local shop at 82K miles. The receipt doesn't indicate if the filter was changed. This wasn't a flush service, just a change. When I got the car it had 134k. I then changed the fluid again as a tune up, again no flush, just a straight fluid swap. Pan had some grey particulate in the bottom, but not bad. I did change the filter and replaced fluid with NAPA brand ATF. Periodically checked fluid for color and level.
The car shifted perfectly fine for about 3 months. By then I was just over 140K and one day the car began shifting very hard half way to work from school. When I got to work and saw/smelled the fluid I knew it was toast.

This car was a good cheap car for my dad, so we though I should be able to squeeze an easy 6 months out of it. I was very good to the car, definitely more than him. He is one of those guys that shifts from D to R and vise-versa when the car is still rolling. (Pet peeve of mine) maybe it had finally taken its toll?

Sucks. I miss the car, was great to turn key and go. But $800 is a lot to loose to a kid still in college. My dad feels bad, and I know its not his fault. Now I have a payment on a newer truck, but I like it a lot. On the plus side it has a warranty for 3 years 36K miles.

 

My heart just sunk a little after reading your posts. lol progress, progress, bam! Sold. haha