New guy, 01' Century
#1
08-07-2013, 08:22 AM
New guy, 01' Century
Hello all,
New to the Buick scene, well not quite yet but in the process. My dad bout a 2002 Buick Century custom about 2-3 years ago with 50K miles in mint condition. It has the 3.1L engine. Its now up in the 130's and is starting to show surface rust on the rockers along with some issues. My dad just got a new job further away so he is looking into a new ride.
I struck a deal with him to buy his Buick. I'm still in college and need a gas saver as i drive a diesel Silverado, a Mustang and a lifted Wrangler. He convinced me he gets mid to upper 20's with this car for MPG's. I did the math and if i keep this car for a year (till i graduate...again) i will save $1,300 in fuel. So the purchase price seems to be right around $1,000.
The car does have a few issues: The muffler just fell off last week (rest of exhaust is very solid). The drivers window doesn't go down, it only likes to go up (i guess its better this way). The fuel gauge has been stuck on full for about 1.5 years. The car has started running a tad warm while sitting in traffic but is fine when moving. The ABS kicks on every once and a while when stopping.
Some of the good includes brand new snow tires installed last winter, two new front struts installed this summer along with new front wheel bearings and brakes, new radiator last year, new blower motor and replaced intake gaskets last year. The A/C still works great, and runs real nice!
Sorry for the essay, but here is the only pics i have. Don't mind the circled Colt, i should have never sold that ride.
I can't wait to finally get a car where i can just turn the key and drive, get decent mileage and comfortable too!
New to the Buick scene, well not quite yet but in the process. My dad bout a 2002 Buick Century custom about 2-3 years ago with 50K miles in mint condition. It has the 3.1L engine. Its now up in the 130's and is starting to show surface rust on the rockers along with some issues. My dad just got a new job further away so he is looking into a new ride.
I struck a deal with him to buy his Buick. I'm still in college and need a gas saver as i drive a diesel Silverado, a Mustang and a lifted Wrangler. He convinced me he gets mid to upper 20's with this car for MPG's. I did the math and if i keep this car for a year (till i graduate...again) i will save $1,300 in fuel. So the purchase price seems to be right around $1,000.
The car does have a few issues: The muffler just fell off last week (rest of exhaust is very solid). The drivers window doesn't go down, it only likes to go up (i guess its better this way). The fuel gauge has been stuck on full for about 1.5 years. The car has started running a tad warm while sitting in traffic but is fine when moving. The ABS kicks on every once and a while when stopping.
Some of the good includes brand new snow tires installed last winter, two new front struts installed this summer along with new front wheel bearings and brakes, new radiator last year, new blower motor and replaced intake gaskets last year. The A/C still works great, and runs real nice!
Sorry for the essay, but here is the only pics i have. Don't mind the circled Colt, i should have never sold that ride.
I can't wait to finally get a car where i can just turn the key and drive, get decent mileage and comfortable too!
#2
08-09-2013, 12:33 AM
Welcome to the forums! Has regular maintence been done to the car outside of engine oil? As of right now GM is saying the exact same as they did back in 97-98 about the fluids are from 100k to almost lifetime fluids. Coolant engine and trans oils need to be changed well before 100k. My brand new car says lifetime but many have proven the factory trans fluids break down at 10K. Doing the trans drain and fill is not the cleanest process seeing that it doesn't have a single drain bolt. They have trans pans that have a drain bolt but You have to ask is the price worth it seeing as you don't drain it as much as the engine oil. I will also say jump on the 02 sensors as well. Waiting for them to completely fail will cost you MPG over time.
I had like no rust on my 98 but then again I had access to a heated garage where I would wash my car every 3-5 days or at least spray it down to prevent the salt build up. 2kcse has more experience in the rust dept as I remember him doing some repairs on his.
Windows aren't hard to fix, even if you get stuck with a rolled down windows like I have in many junk yard cars. Better off buying and installing them in pairs but others may say difrent.
Fuel gauge may be the entire pump assembly on it's way out the door eventually. There is a write up somewhere on how to swap the entire asembly or just the fuel level sender. I will have to look for it if nobody posts it before I find it. Learn to appreciate this being one of the cars built by GM you don't have to drop the entire tank to service it. I would also suggest you wait till the tank is near empty and in well venilated area before working on it.
The sounds of the 3100/3400/3500 are way better then the 3800 exhaust note wise. Aftermarket exhaust don't really fit the look of the Century w/o the regal bumpers. Thats all on you if you go quiet or loud. Take into acount the resonator on the mid pipe also changes the sound of the exhaust.
As for warm in traffic cool on freeway, may need a shop check your coolant system for intake manifold leaks or in my case head gasket leaks. The price of tear down and assembly alone exceeded the value of the car in resale. If I had complete WOT 3400 heads and UIM/LIM in front of me waiting to be installed, I would have taken that hit.
I had like no rust on my 98 but then again I had access to a heated garage where I would wash my car every 3-5 days or at least spray it down to prevent the salt build up. 2kcse has more experience in the rust dept as I remember him doing some repairs on his.
Windows aren't hard to fix, even if you get stuck with a rolled down windows like I have in many junk yard cars. Better off buying and installing them in pairs but others may say difrent.
Fuel gauge may be the entire pump assembly on it's way out the door eventually. There is a write up somewhere on how to swap the entire asembly or just the fuel level sender. I will have to look for it if nobody posts it before I find it. Learn to appreciate this being one of the cars built by GM you don't have to drop the entire tank to service it. I would also suggest you wait till the tank is near empty and in well venilated area before working on it.
The sounds of the 3100/3400/3500 are way better then the 3800 exhaust note wise. Aftermarket exhaust don't really fit the look of the Century w/o the regal bumpers. Thats all on you if you go quiet or loud. Take into acount the resonator on the mid pipe also changes the sound of the exhaust.
As for warm in traffic cool on freeway, may need a shop check your coolant system for intake manifold leaks or in my case head gasket leaks. The price of tear down and assembly alone exceeded the value of the car in resale. If I had complete WOT 3400 heads and UIM/LIM in front of me waiting to be installed, I would have taken that hit.
#3
08-09-2013, 07:38 AM
Welcome to the forums! Has regular maintence been done to the car outside of engine oil? As of right now GM is saying the exact same as they did back in 97-98 about the fluids are from 100k to almost lifetime fluids. Coolant engine and trans oils need to be changed well before 100k. My brand new car says lifetime but many have proven the factory trans fluids break down at 10K. Doing the trans drain and fill is not the cleanest process seeing that it doesn't have a single drain bolt. They have trans pans that have a drain bolt but You have to ask is the price worth it seeing as you don't drain it as much as the engine oil. I will also say jump on the 02 sensors as well. Waiting for them to completely fail will cost you MPG over time.
I had like no rust on my 98 but then again I had access to a heated garage where I would wash my car every 3-5 days or at least spray it down to prevent the salt build up. 2kcse has more experience in the rust dept as I remember him doing some repairs on his.
Windows aren't hard to fix, even if you get stuck with a rolled down windows like I have in many junk yard cars. Better off buying and installing them in pairs but others may say difrent.
Fuel gauge may be the entire pump assembly on it's way out the door eventually. There is a write up somewhere on how to swap the entire asembly or just the fuel level sender. I will have to look for it if nobody posts it before I find it. Learn to appreciate this being one of the cars built by GM you don't have to drop the entire tank to service it. I would also suggest you wait till the tank is near empty and in well venilated area before working on it.
The sounds of the 3100/3400/3500 are way better then the 3800 exhaust note wise. Aftermarket exhaust don't really fit the look of the Century w/o the regal bumpers. Thats all on you if you go quiet or loud. Take into acount the resonator on the mid pipe also changes the sound of the exhaust.
As for warm in traffic cool on freeway, may need a shop check your coolant system for intake manifold leaks or in my case head gasket leaks. The price of tear down and assembly alone exceeded the value of the car in resale. If I had complete WOT 3400 heads and UIM/LIM in front of me waiting to be installed, I would have taken that hit.
I had like no rust on my 98 but then again I had access to a heated garage where I would wash my car every 3-5 days or at least spray it down to prevent the salt build up. 2kcse has more experience in the rust dept as I remember him doing some repairs on his.
Windows aren't hard to fix, even if you get stuck with a rolled down windows like I have in many junk yard cars. Better off buying and installing them in pairs but others may say difrent.
Fuel gauge may be the entire pump assembly on it's way out the door eventually. There is a write up somewhere on how to swap the entire asembly or just the fuel level sender. I will have to look for it if nobody posts it before I find it. Learn to appreciate this being one of the cars built by GM you don't have to drop the entire tank to service it. I would also suggest you wait till the tank is near empty and in well venilated area before working on it.
The sounds of the 3100/3400/3500 are way better then the 3800 exhaust note wise. Aftermarket exhaust don't really fit the look of the Century w/o the regal bumpers. Thats all on you if you go quiet or loud. Take into acount the resonator on the mid pipe also changes the sound of the exhaust.
As for warm in traffic cool on freeway, may need a shop check your coolant system for intake manifold leaks or in my case head gasket leaks. The price of tear down and assembly alone exceeded the value of the car in resale. If I had complete WOT 3400 heads and UIM/LIM in front of me waiting to be installed, I would have taken that hit.
My dad has done the oil changes religiously at instant oil places and maybe a few times in his driveway. The trans fluid was last replaced around 70-80K miles, and is looking like its due again. I pulled the stick and its more brown looking than red.
I'm saving up money to take it to the shop and have them replace the trans filter and fluid within the next week or two, i'm not going to do the flush though as i've heard many mixed reviews.
The LIM gaskets were replaced at about 100K miles due to mysterious coolant loss. The car doesn't use any coolant now. The radiator was replaced right after the LIM gaskets were done due to ATF mixing in with the coolant. Since then both have stayed in their respective loops.
My dad has never washed the car, it was a get in and drive car for him. The car was mint when he bought it, but not getting washed is starting to show with bubbles and rust stains, no holes yet anywhere.
I did the rear hub/bearings Wednesday night along with the fuel module. The fuel gauge is now working correctly again. I still feel the ABS kick on slightly every once and a while but not enough to trip the light anymore. This car has had all new hubs within the last 6 months.
I've done 2 mileage calculations so far. First was 200 miles, and i got 26 MPG. Second was 100 miles and i got 25 MPG, these are on county roads with hills and small town driving.
Also just replaced the air filter which was loaded with debris. I want to pull the spark plugs as i'm sure they are OEM since new.
My plan is to replace the stock muffler that fell off, i bought an adapter and need to wait for my friend to get healed from an appendix removal to lick it and stick it. I prefer to keep the car quiet, but i guess that's because i'm a V8 guy.
I bought this car to be a cheap beater for my senior year of college, so im trying to keep the spending on the down low. Does the mileage seem to represent what the car should achieve?
Thanks! Sorry for the essay.
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#5
08-09-2013, 03:53 PM
Welcome to the forum! Nice Century! Reminds me of mine two and a half years ago when I got it.
As Merc said, I have attempted some rust repairs (driver's side rocker looked like swiss cheese). Basically, I cleaned up as much of the rust as I could, and made a patch panel to cover it. A year and a half later, and it's in rough shape again, so if you do it, do it right and get the proper panel replacement from an autoparts store/dealer. You'll have to cut out all the rust, and weld the new panel in place. Should hold up well.
As Merc said, I have attempted some rust repairs (driver's side rocker looked like swiss cheese). Basically, I cleaned up as much of the rust as I could, and made a patch panel to cover it. A year and a half later, and it's in rough shape again, so if you do it, do it right and get the proper panel replacement from an autoparts store/dealer. You'll have to cut out all the rust, and weld the new panel in place. Should hold up well.
#6
08-12-2013, 02:10 PM
Welcome to the forum! Nice Century! Reminds me of mine two and a half years ago when I got it.
As Merc said, I have attempted some rust repairs (driver's side rocker looked like swiss cheese). Basically, I cleaned up as much of the rust as I could, and made a patch panel to cover it. A year and a half later, and it's in rough shape again, so if you do it, do it right and get the proper panel replacement from an autoparts store/dealer. You'll have to cut out all the rust, and weld the new panel in place. Should hold up well.
As Merc said, I have attempted some rust repairs (driver's side rocker looked like swiss cheese). Basically, I cleaned up as much of the rust as I could, and made a patch panel to cover it. A year and a half later, and it's in rough shape again, so if you do it, do it right and get the proper panel replacement from an autoparts store/dealer. You'll have to cut out all the rust, and weld the new panel in place. Should hold up well.
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