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Cable overheat

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  #1  
Old 12-13-2021, 11:18 PM
Ilirgo86's Avatar
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Default Cable overheat

Hi everyone!
I have a Buick Enclave 2010 CXL FWD.
I am having a issue with
Positive Battery Junction Block Cable Positive Battery Junction Block Cable
overheating. The cable get overheated between alternator nut and fusible link.
The issue start by having cranking issue and battery discharging if i was not using the car for 2 or 3 days.
I took the car to a shop and ask them to change:
1-
Positive Battery Junction Block Cable Positive Battery Junction Block Cable
as the old one has melted the insualtion between alternator nut and fusible link.
2- Install a new remanifactured GM alternator.
3-New Battery current sensor.
4-New battery intalled.
5- New ground cable at battery side the old one was having some corrosion.
The old alternator was having fluctuating voltage 12.8 V - 13.8 V the new one is getting 14.6 V.
If I check for current draw with ignition off it will show 4.2 amp with cabin lights off and after 20 sec it goes 0.02 amp.
I have test the current draw with igniton off for every single fuse that is located on the fuse box passanger side next to the engine.
The 4.2 amp for 20 sec after it goes 0.02 is connected with Batt 3 fuse. (I dont know if this is something normal)
I am thinking to check avery singel GND connection for possible corrosion but I dont know where they are located except battery side and jump start GND close to the fuse box passanger side.
Could anyone help with this case that was facing similar issue or just provide extra info how to check.
Thnx!
 
  #2  
Old 12-14-2021, 08:09 AM
hanky's Avatar
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Default

Where and how did you check for current draw?

The fact that the connection is overheating is telling us there is either a poor connection there or excessive current going through due to the wire not being able to handle the current demand. What we really need to know is, just how much current is the alt putting out and why.
Is there something added to the vehicle that the current requirement is being exceeded.? If not, somebody needs to find out where all this current is going and why.

Vehicles today are wired to put the power back into the battery from starting and supply the power (volts X amps) to operate the vehicle and accessories. It is not intended to charge dead batteries.
 
  #3  
Old 12-18-2021, 06:48 PM
Ilirgo86's Avatar
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Default Hi!

Thank you Hanky!
I chek the amps with a multimeter setting it up for amper measure and conneting it in series with the battery.
I have order a clamp amper meter to measure the amps draw at alternator cable when car is running with full load.
By the way what should i expect about the amps value with full electrical load?

Will came back soon with updates info asap i recieve the clmap amper meter.
 

Last edited by Ilirgo86; 12-18-2021 at 06:51 PM.
  #4  
Old 12-19-2021, 07:43 AM
hanky's Avatar
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Different years with different demands will have different alternator output capabilities.

There is usually a stamping on the alternator indicating output. Usually in the area of 100 amps or more.

You are on the right track getting a clamp on amp tool. Let us know how you make out, OK, thanks.
Make sure it is compatible with your meter.
 
  #5  
Old 12-19-2021, 06:05 PM
Ilirgo86's Avatar
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Hello!
I got my clamp meter and measured the cable coming out the alternator with car on and full load ( A/C on full blow, cabin lights on, head lights on) the clamp meter was showing 42 amps.
Battery is drawing 3.5 to 4.2 amps. I this normal?

When I disconnect the battery cable, car keep running, but cabin lights are flickering a little. Is this normal?

An other test that i have make was during car running I have disconnect the battery sensor for a short moment and measured the voltage. Voltage start riesing up to 15.5 volt. I connect the sensor back and the voltage goes back to 14.6 volt. I just want to test the battery system and alternator regulator.

My alternator is 160 Amper which i think the draw of 42 amp from my car system should be pretty normal.
 
  #6  
Old 12-20-2021, 07:36 AM
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Please,,,,,,,,,,,,,never disconnect a battery cable on any vehicle equipped with an alternator and the engine running.


WHY ???
With no load for the alt output the alt will keep raising the charging rate until it destroys itself and this can happen very quickly.

The results you posted appear to be normal. I would continue to look for poor connections in the system and make sure the output connection at the alternator is clean and in good condition.

There is either an unknown hi current demand that is asking for all the alt can give or the regulator in the present alternator could be fauty..
 
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