I hate to start A new thread about old topics, but I need some more info Please... My drv door window works when it wants to, this is what I did, I installed A new window regulator w/new motor, tested (used) main switch, tested (used) door module, Checked all the wires in the door, connectors ect. and it still would not work, I can hear the door module click. I drove to town and tried to switch it A few times and it would not work, I pulled it back in to my garage and it started to work. I opened and shut the widow a few times and it worked. It would do this a lot, work then will not work. I'm not sure if the door module has to reset it self or not. The rest of the windows work fine.

 

Does the switch at the drivers door control the other windows properly? Any corrosion at any of the connectors? You may have a chaffed wire somewhere between the switch and regulator, and isn't making a good connection.

 

I checked all the wire running to it and all the connectors and they look good, all the other windows work. The only thing I can think of is that the window seams to be A little lose in its track witch I'm going to check that out, you would think I would still see or hear the motor engage and move a little. I'm going to tare it apart Today and mess with it again.

 

Well another day messing with it, I tooked the panel apart again double checked all the wires with A ohm meter and has power to the motor, checked the plugs again and they look ok, the window worked for awhile today and know it don't work, I might have to take it over to A shop (feeling defeated) I replaced 20 or so motors in the past I'm not sure why there is gremlins in the door.

 

Don't give up just yet.
To clarify for my own understanding, you say you have power to the motor.
When you are using the switch do you still have 12 volts going to the motor and are there any times you have power to the motor and the motor does not respond? Are you checking for power (12 volts) to the motor at the time it will not work? If that is the case get another motor. If you have confirmed that the ground for that motor is good and solid and you have power to the module and none to the motor the module has a problem.
With the door open , can you move the wires at the hinge area and see if you can cause any change. wires do break in there many times due to the constant flexing.

 

Thanks for the reinsurance, I have only tested it when the door panel was off, it had power then and worked for a few miles but stopped working when I was about to order coffee at McDonald's lol. I notice the reading on my ohm meter was like under 12volts like 11.68 or something like that but that might be off because I've notice my tester wire was split near the base and that might have given me A false reading. I have checked the wires on the door hinge area, just by wiggling them, the rubber boot looks ok, I had the ohm meter hooked up to it then and it didn't change voltage. It might be the used module (they said it was tested) Or my luck the new (used) module might be bad. How would I go about testing that, should I hook A jumper hot wire to it and test? Thanks for any info.