Headlights will not turn on
#1
06-28-2018, 08:43 AM
Headlights will not turn on
Hello,
My headlights will not turn on. Originally I had changed the headlight and it stilll would not work so I also replaced the fuse after replacing the fuse my headlights did work for about a week and now again my headlights have gone out. Any thoughts?
I have a 2000 Buick Century Custom 3.1 L with 114K miles.
My headlights will not turn on. Originally I had changed the headlight and it stilll would not work so I also replaced the fuse after replacing the fuse my headlights did work for about a week and now again my headlights have gone out. Any thoughts?
I have a 2000 Buick Century Custom 3.1 L with 114K miles.
#2
06-28-2018, 08:45 AM
I was unable to reply to this previous thread since I was the original author but I did replace my fuel pump and sensor which resolved my fuel gauge acting erratically.
#2I had a similar issue with my 2002.
I replaced the fuel level sensor (mounts to the fuel pump) and now it works like new.
From what I have read, the sulfur in fuel can cause the level sensor to fail.
not an uncommon issue.
#3These fuel level sensors tend to go bad without the help of sulfur, so the fuel system cleaners that remove the sulfur, and in other models restores the sensor functionality, don't help much. However, it isn't hard to replace these sensors. You can probably have it swapped out in about an hour or two.
You can access the fuel pump and assembly without dropping the tank. If you remove the back seat, you'll find an access panel held on with some stamped metal 10mm nuts. Underneath is the fuel pump assembly. The hard part is going to be the actual assembly removal as the retaining ring has a tendency to rust, so it won't come out easy. In my case I damaged a connector on the assembly trying to release the ring, but only so much as it needed some liquid electrical tape to seal it up again to keep out moisture. If you have access to a decent air compressor, I'd recommend using an air hammer to remove the ring. It will make it go so much more quickly. I must have spent hours and hours spraying the ring with PB Blaster and going at it with a hammer with no result before I tried the air hammer.
Anyway, once you remove the ring, the assembly comes out with a little finagling but not a lit of effort. It's pretty easy to switch out the sensors and then put the assembly back into the tank. Again, with the ring, I used the air hammer to reinstall it (and I bought a new one since the old one was beyond wrecked). One quick note about the air hammer, should you chose to go that route. Keep pressure on it with the appropriate bit held against one of the posts on the ring, and run it in short bursts. If you go too hard too long, when the ring breaks free you could lose control and damage the tank.
Also, do this in a well ventilated area, and probably when you know the tank is close to empty. Gasoline vapors can be really nasty. So, I hope my mistakes can help you do the job more quickly, easily, and with less trouble than I encountered.
https://buickforums.com/forums/threa...erratic.45598/
BK3
A Regular
3718Buick Ownership2002 CenturyMar 18, 2017#2I had a similar issue with my 2002.
I replaced the fuel level sensor (mounts to the fuel pump) and now it works like new.
From what I have read, the sulfur in fuel can cause the level sensor to fail.
not an uncommon issue.
ledzilla
Full Member
16800Buick Ownership2001 Century CustomMar 24, 2017#3These fuel level sensors tend to go bad without the help of sulfur, so the fuel system cleaners that remove the sulfur, and in other models restores the sensor functionality, don't help much. However, it isn't hard to replace these sensors. You can probably have it swapped out in about an hour or two.
You can access the fuel pump and assembly without dropping the tank. If you remove the back seat, you'll find an access panel held on with some stamped metal 10mm nuts. Underneath is the fuel pump assembly. The hard part is going to be the actual assembly removal as the retaining ring has a tendency to rust, so it won't come out easy. In my case I damaged a connector on the assembly trying to release the ring, but only so much as it needed some liquid electrical tape to seal it up again to keep out moisture. If you have access to a decent air compressor, I'd recommend using an air hammer to remove the ring. It will make it go so much more quickly. I must have spent hours and hours spraying the ring with PB Blaster and going at it with a hammer with no result before I tried the air hammer.
Anyway, once you remove the ring, the assembly comes out with a little finagling but not a lit of effort. It's pretty easy to switch out the sensors and then put the assembly back into the tank. Again, with the ring, I used the air hammer to reinstall it (and I bought a new one since the old one was beyond wrecked). One quick note about the air hammer, should you chose to go that route. Keep pressure on it with the appropriate bit held against one of the posts on the ring, and run it in short bursts. If you go too hard too long, when the ring breaks free you could lose control and damage the tank.
Also, do this in a well ventilated area, and probably when you know the tank is close to empty. Gasoline vapors can be really nasty. So, I hope my mistakes can help you do the job more quickly, easily, and with less trouble than I encountered.
https://buickforums.com/forums/threa...erratic.45598/
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