94 RM Estate Wagon fuel pump
#1
07-10-2018, 11:31 PM
94 RM Estate Wagon fuel pump
Hi, well I changed oil, replaced both belts and the fuel filter as part of the roadworthiness plan to make this car as trouble free as possible. So I drive home 60 miles from the shop and park in the underground garage. The next day I go to,leave for work and I heard the fuel pump run like always and started to back out of the stall and I just made it to the center of the isle and the motor quit. I noticed right away the fuel pump wasn’t running. Of course it wouldn’t start so I was left with pushing it up the slight grade into its stall. Ever pushed a 4500 pound car up a slight grade? At 76 I’m not supposed to do this but I had no choice so I finally made it after half hour.
how hard is to replace the fuel pump?
im kinda looking at what the flat rate might be.
a complete fuel pump and sending unit is about $260 alone.
its got at least 1/2 tank of fuel. We are not supposed to work on cars in the garage and I’ve already collected a couple complaints from my other classic car.
Byron
i don’t know how I can get it out of the garage so AAA could come and get it. I could get a friend to come over during the day and we could use his truck or my el Camino. Still a major problem.
how hard is to replace the fuel pump?
im kinda looking at what the flat rate might be.
a complete fuel pump and sending unit is about $260 alone.
its got at least 1/2 tank of fuel. We are not supposed to work on cars in the garage and I’ve already collected a couple complaints from my other classic car.
Byron
i don’t know how I can get it out of the garage so AAA could come and get it. I could get a friend to come over during the day and we could use his truck or my el Camino. Still a major problem.
#3
07-12-2018, 04:25 AM
I haven’t checked the fuse and relay but I will this week end. The fuel pump did make a smooth whine, not loud but you could hear it. Now it silent.
I’m thinking that I’ll replace the relay and order a new pump assembly. I did the oil change, both belts, air cleaner and fuel filter. This was in an attempt to fix typical problems before they happen. I was going to change the trans fluid but it doesn’t smell bad and is nice and red color. Plus it doesn’t leak a drop.
Still to do is to replace the three wipers. The right wiper arm seems to have stripped the splines in the arm as it doesn’t park all the way and does move some. So hopefully just the arm is bad.
I’ll be checking the brakes too even though they seem very good. Tires are new new but I need to check the year.
Byron
i did look at the exhaust system and it’s original but not in the best shape. The mufflers seem like they are full of something so I’m guessing they aren’t good either.
My goal is to make this car into a truly road worthy car that’s capable of going on the road at a moments notice that it should be with its relatively low mileage.
I’m thinking that I’ll replace the relay and order a new pump assembly. I did the oil change, both belts, air cleaner and fuel filter. This was in an attempt to fix typical problems before they happen. I was going to change the trans fluid but it doesn’t smell bad and is nice and red color. Plus it doesn’t leak a drop.
Still to do is to replace the three wipers. The right wiper arm seems to have stripped the splines in the arm as it doesn’t park all the way and does move some. So hopefully just the arm is bad.
I’ll be checking the brakes too even though they seem very good. Tires are new new but I need to check the year.
Byron
i did look at the exhaust system and it’s original but not in the best shape. The mufflers seem like they are full of something so I’m guessing they aren’t good either.
My goal is to make this car into a truly road worthy car that’s capable of going on the road at a moments notice that it should be with its relatively low mileage.
#4
07-12-2018, 06:44 PM
Something to consider;if the fuse and relay check out OK and it is the fuel pump.
Circumstances being what they are, you just might get one more chance to get the fuel pump working so you could have the vehicle where it is more convenient to tow or drive.
There have been times when a rap on the bottom of the fuel tank, with a rubber mallet, while the engine is being cranked, got the fuel pump running. This only works once, but would give you the chance to move it under it's own power.
Of course you must be very careful , so the vehicle cannot move while someone is under it, so make sure it is in park and the parking brake is applied before attempting this move.
I t will usually keep running, until you shut it off,then doesn't work again.
Circumstances being what they are, you just might get one more chance to get the fuel pump working so you could have the vehicle where it is more convenient to tow or drive.
There have been times when a rap on the bottom of the fuel tank, with a rubber mallet, while the engine is being cranked, got the fuel pump running. This only works once, but would give you the chance to move it under it's own power.
Of course you must be very careful , so the vehicle cannot move while someone is under it, so make sure it is in park and the parking brake is applied before attempting this move.
I t will usually keep running, until you shut it off,then doesn't work again.
#5
07-15-2018, 09:35 PM
There is a port to check fuel pressure on the fuel rail. If the pump is silent, it is 95% chance that the pump is dead. I would check the relay instead of buying a new one. A VOM is your friend. You only need to buy a pump, not the whole assembly. Buy an AC Delco, Delphi, or Walbro pump. Do NOT buy a Bosch. The pump should cost about $75-100. Check Amazon and ebay.
You must drop the tank to replace the pump. I have found places that will do it for about $100. There are three lines, two nuts at the front, and two bolts at the rear. There are two different ways to handle the filler neck. I prefer to unbolt it at the top and remove the left heat shield so you can lower it attached. This way you will spill less fuel. You can remove it at the tank, but the likelyhood of a fuel spill is much higher. There is also a ground strap on the filler tube. The connector is at the rear left on the frame. While you have the tank down, replace the vent line to the metal vent line on the filler tube. It is 18 mm fuel line. You can use 19 mm (3/4 inch) if you tighten the clamps sufficiently (you can not get the hose on a weekend). The hose is one of the possible leaks that can be prevented. You may need a quick release tool for the fuel and return lines to the tank. The lines are held away from the suspension by a clamp wire on the body above the axle.
If you can put it on jack stands, you can disconnect the hose at the back of the fuel filter, and siphon the fuel into container below the tank. It is a lot easier to remove and replace when empty.
Hitting the tank on the bottom can get the pump to run. You may even get a couple of responses to that. It may even start a couple of times.
You must drop the tank to replace the pump. I have found places that will do it for about $100. There are three lines, two nuts at the front, and two bolts at the rear. There are two different ways to handle the filler neck. I prefer to unbolt it at the top and remove the left heat shield so you can lower it attached. This way you will spill less fuel. You can remove it at the tank, but the likelyhood of a fuel spill is much higher. There is also a ground strap on the filler tube. The connector is at the rear left on the frame. While you have the tank down, replace the vent line to the metal vent line on the filler tube. It is 18 mm fuel line. You can use 19 mm (3/4 inch) if you tighten the clamps sufficiently (you can not get the hose on a weekend). The hose is one of the possible leaks that can be prevented. You may need a quick release tool for the fuel and return lines to the tank. The lines are held away from the suspension by a clamp wire on the body above the axle.
If you can put it on jack stands, you can disconnect the hose at the back of the fuel filter, and siphon the fuel into container below the tank. It is a lot easier to remove and replace when empty.
Hitting the tank on the bottom can get the pump to run. You may even get a couple of responses to that. It may even start a couple of times.
#7
07-16-2018, 07:18 AM
Thanks for the tip. I can no longer do the work so I’ll pass it on to the shop. They either haven’t done one at all or it’s been a long time. I’ve done this with my Dodge too and they appreciate it.
Byron
Byron
#9
07-18-2018, 07:36 PM
I did a quick check of relay and it seemed fine. Just switched a couple around. I tried rapping the tank but no results. I called the shop and talked with him about the issue. He said they would run all the tests first before removing the tank. He has been around for a good long time and said it’s been a while since he has seen one of these. He said that something may be plugged causing an overload on the pump. Possibly the pump filter sock. He will check it out.
He has done work on my truck and been very reasonable. So I trust him.
I had had a friend of mine come over today and we dragged it out of the garage and into a good parking spot. Friday I’ll have AAA come and pick it up. They will deliver it to the shop. I’ve already had another tow earlier so I still have a few left. That’s what I like about the extended coverage. It costs a few bucks extra but it sure beats the tow charges.
Byron
He has done work on my truck and been very reasonable. So I trust him.
I had had a friend of mine come over today and we dragged it out of the garage and into a good parking spot. Friday I’ll have AAA come and pick it up. They will deliver it to the shop. I’ve already had another tow earlier so I still have a few left. That’s what I like about the extended coverage. It costs a few bucks extra but it sure beats the tow charges.
Byron
Last edited by Bentwings; 07-18-2018 at 07:38 PM.
#10
07-19-2018, 09:34 PM
There should be a dangling connector near the fuse box post. It is the pump override connector. If you connect it to the battery positive side, and the pump is good, the pump will run.