Lucerne Buick's full size luxury vehicle

ABS Module Brake Line Leaks

  #1  
Old 02-23-2019, 07:29 AM
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Question ABS Module Brake Line Leaks

What flare type, standard(inverted) or bubble is used on the driver side front line going into the ABS module?
I am replacing the line as it is rusty and was not replaced when the other 3 were, with copper-nickel line. I had a good local shop make a bubble flare and they based that on the flat flare nut which is a bubble nut. Now it leaks and I do not want tighten any more. The flare nut is flat on the car and flat from the dealer by part number.

Thoughts?
Thanks,

John

DISCLAIMER: This is a brake question. Please do not base your life or others' lives on anything presented here. If you have no brake pedal, tow it to a shop or seek help from a friend or home service profesional. AAA will tow your car under their tow agreement, to a shop.
 

Last edited by myfreeaudi; 03-01-2019 at 04:26 AM.
  #2  
Old 02-23-2019, 07:47 AM
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Could the material the new line is made of require addl tightening to make a good seal?
 
  #3  
Old 02-26-2019, 04:35 AM
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Well, now there is a new development. I went to the junkyard and got a used brake line. I do not believe in used brake lines but this is a desperate time. The one from another 2007 Lucerne has a standard "inverted" flare, not a bubble flare. I installed it and when I looked at the port in the ABS modulator, the upright cone that seals the flare was scored. Now the correct, used flare leaks.

To your suggestion, I will try to tighten a little more.

I am about to turn the car over to a shop and "buy my way out of this." I have been fussing with it for a full week and just making it worse. Before I do that, I will make sure the shop does not find work to do I can do myself. For instance, if they wanted to bleed all the brakes, are the other 3 bleeder screws rusted into the calipers like this one was?

Thank you for your reply.

- Love the emojis, lol.
 
  #4  
Old 02-27-2019, 05:06 PM
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Aside from the marr would have gone with the 45 degree double flare also. As Hanky suggested to tighten more and perhaps some Teflon tape on threads may be enough to stop leak if not too bad. Also try shining gouge area with Crocus cloth.

Usually heating bleeder fittings with propane torch will free them up (MAP gas may get too hot). The old days could bleed cylinders by pushing feeler gauge past rubber seal and bleed air if fitting was broken on drum style brakes.
 

Last edited by Rich B.; 02-27-2019 at 05:18 PM.
  #5  
Old 02-28-2019, 02:45 AM
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Two things of concern,
When we see ANYTHING not right pertaining to brake systems we need to be careful what we suggest because if it is not 100% right we gave faulty suggestion. It is your vehicle and sometimes you can do whatever you choose and we hope it is the 100% step. Not knowing just what type fitting and flare you were dealing with I may have offered an incorrect suggestion, so please make sure as the pics provided by Rich B. you have the correct mating parts. Addl tightening just can't make up for incorrectly mated parts.
If air gets into the ABS module you could require a scan tool to open the internal solenoids in order to do a complete and thorough brake bleed.
 

Last edited by hanky; 02-28-2019 at 10:59 AM.
  #6  
Old 02-28-2019, 05:10 AM
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Hanky is completely correct on advice, look forward myself to his posts. When I post I suggest things I have done or would do myself. I too, see so much stuff on Internet (not meaning here) that is not quite right lol. Brakes work with hydraulics, tremendous high pressures; is why steel lines are used and double flared ends of some sort. Sometimes too I'll comment in jest and it may be taken as actual. Again IMHO the forums are for entertainment only but sometimes do get the cogs working.
 

Last edited by Rich B.; 02-28-2019 at 05:14 AM.
  #7  
Old 02-28-2019, 11:17 AM
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Rich B.
I must say you brought out a great point.
We all almost graze through the net seeking info and procedures.
I have been in this line of work (vehicle maint) for a few moons and attended my share of seminars , schools and even instructed some classes and will be the first to admit, I don't know everything. The more I learn, the more I realize I don't know as much as I would like to think I know.
There are some videos that are not exactly accurate and we all should be careful accepting some of the info. There are many good ones too !
There is a certain amount of satisfaction obtained when we are able to share some of that learning and help some folks with some vehicle problems.
 
  #8  
Old 03-01-2019, 04:22 AM
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I took it to a shop and the mechanic tightened the two leaking fittings and bled that caliper. The owner said I needed 3 new calipers as the bleeders were rusted in, but they did get pedal.
I rented a vacuum bleeder from loan-a-tool and bled the two rear calipers. Then I had a good high pedal.
At first I liked the shop but was disappointed that the owner told me the two rear calipers were rusted in.
I will add a disclaimer to the original post as it is brakes we are talking about.
Thank you for your input.
John -
 
  #9  
Old 03-01-2019, 06:00 AM
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Glad to hear on fix MFA. Worst too that can happen with rusted bleeders is they will snap off even with heat but eazyouts will sometimes then work also for removal.

Hanky, I'd say you probably forgot more than I ever knew. Can well tell by the caliber of your messages you know what your saying. I honestly know nothing about Buicks never owning one until recently. Hope to see more info from you time to time.
 
  #10  
Old 03-01-2019, 06:42 AM
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Something to consider,
When replacing calipers or wheel cyls, Before installing them I always removed the bleed screws and applied never seize to the threads so in the future when and if it became necessary to bleed the caliper , you were able to loosen the bleed screw without too much trouble.

Rich, Thank you for your kind words, I only hope my hat will fit now, lol !
 
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