I need some advise on how to change the tensioner pulley wheel on a 1995 Buick Lesabre 3.8 V6?
Also need help on how difficult it is to change a valve cover gasket on same car. Thanks guys!!!!

 

Move the tensioner against the internal spring in order to remove the belt , then just remove the bolt that holds the tensioner to the engine.
Which valve cover did you plan to remove , front or rear?
Most use a silicone adhesive these days instead of the usual gaskets.

 

Thanks for your help. I removed the pulley, installed a new one and the "noise" is still there. I could only assume I need to replace the entire tensioner assembly. I bought it already, just have no idea how to change it because my haynes manual does not cover how to remove it correctly and safely. Any advise?

I gave up on the valve cover gaskets, oil leaks on a 15 year old American car is acceptable to me

 

After you remove the belt from under tension by the tensioner,if you spin the pulley and hear no noise , chances are it is not the tensioner assy. While you have the belt loose turn/spin the power steering pulley , alternator and air conditioner pulleys , if you hear any noise that is the source. Let us know what you find.
Were you able to take up a little on the valve cover bolts, sometimes that is all it takes to slowdown or stop a leak.

 

After removing the belt I spun the wheels on the power steering pump, the alternator and compressor. I am unable to replicate the screaming noise the car makes at acceleration. The low key winding screaming noise is dull at idle but increases at acceleration. Not so much screaming, just a winding noise that works directly with acceleration.
On a side note, the vehicle runs perfect. The noise has not caused the car to run different at all. Regardless, it is without question a new noise that did not exist before.
Could the noise be a soon to be failing power steering pump or alternator and I'm potentially replacing the wrong part? Another side note, Firestone diagnosed this problem while doing the "free tire rotation".
I tried to run the defrost and AC to see if the compressor was the screaming but I'm not sure. The tensioner part is returnable as long as I don't install it. What can happen if the tensioner assembly "fails"?

The valve covers, I tightened the bolts a bit, cleaned it up and will monitor.
thanks

 

Sometimes we can isolate the noise by holding a long screwdriver or a piece of hose (garden hose is ok) at each of the pulleys while the engine is running. But, be very careful not to get too close to any moving parts with the screwdriver or hose. For example if you hold the screwdriver on the front and back the alternator and place the handle close to your ear you will hear any grinding or squealing much better. If it is the pulley bearing on the air conditioning compressor it will disappear when you turn on the defroster or air conditioning. In place of a long screwdriver , you can use a piece of broomstick or something like that.
If the tensioner should fail the belt would come off and you would lose the service of the water pump and everything the belt turns. By the way also listen for the noise at the water pump too.

 

ok, thanks for all your help. I will do mre investigating and follow up. Thanks
Ant

 

Have screaming/squealing coming from tensioner assembly, when I spray it (the tensioner assembly not the pulley nor the serpentine belt) with silicone lubricant it quiets for a while. I have a new tensioner pulley already installed. I have no noises coming from other components. Has anyone replaced this before? Any tips for removing the tension assembly from the coolant hoses and elbow is greatly appreciated!

 

Awbooth, what did you finally find was the problem causing your noise ??