95 LeSabre Custom - Wont Start
#1
<DIV id=post_message_14141>We have a '95 Lesabre Custom that just won't start.
plenty of power to all electrical systems. When the key is turned to the start position, there is a VERY faint clicking noise from what sounds like it *MIGHT* be the starter solonoid.
Last night I checked all the fuses under the dash on the drivers side.. all appear to be good.
Replaced the starter.
Replace the battery.
Tried 2 differant ignition keys incase the VAT resister on the first key went out.
I don't know what else to check.
Is there a fuseable link between the battery and starter?
Any and all advice would be very welcome. Esp since the only running vehicle we have right now is my '77 Goldwing </DIV>
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plenty of power to all electrical systems. When the key is turned to the start position, there is a VERY faint clicking noise from what sounds like it *MIGHT* be the starter solonoid.
Last night I checked all the fuses under the dash on the drivers side.. all appear to be good.
Replaced the starter.
Replace the battery.
Tried 2 differant ignition keys incase the VAT resister on the first key went out.
I don't know what else to check.
Is there a fuseable link between the battery and starter?
Any and all advice would be very welcome. Esp since the only running vehicle we have right now is my '77 Goldwing </DIV>
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#3
did not try to pull codes.
I didn't have a chance to work on it last night... (2nd job is teh suk)...
will spend time with it this weekend to figure out what's going on... if I can't get it by this weekend, it'lltake it toa dealership simply because I do so enjoy the pleasure of forced **** intercourse.
#4
There is a bank of relays under the hood near the firewall and one of them may be the problem. You will have to remove the plastic cover first. You can have someone click the ignition while you hold your fingers on each relay to see which one may be for the starter if there is no lable on them. No it want shock you!! Edited by: buckroo
#5
Originally Posted by datacop
did not try to pull codes.
I didn't have a chance to work on it last night... (2nd job is teh suk)...
will spend time with it this weekend to figure out what's going on... if I can't get it by this weekend, it'lltake it toa dealership simply because I do so enjoy the pleasure of forced **** intercourse.
There will be only a slight pressure..
Seriously tracing the voltages back when your attempt a start shoud do it..Connection bad somewhere.
Good luck.. Im watching for your findings.Edited by: bassasasin
#6
Thinking it may have been the VATS system that is wonky on me.. I did the VATS bypass hack... built a resistor pack of the same value as the key and hard wired it into place..
Still no joy on getting it to crank over.
I can hear the relays clicking when the key is turned to the start position. This is a really frusterating thing. She was driving the car, it's not had any hit of problems before it just decided to not work anymore.
The security light does flash on and off when the key is put in, but it doesn't stay lit.
I have good voltage on the high current side of the starter, nothing on the low current side. So something is keeping the power from engaging the solenoid on the starter.
I hate electrical problems. At least if it was mechanical, I could look at the bad part, see it was a bad part, and replace it with a good part.
#7
Got a 94' book out. [img]smileys/smiley16.gif[/img]
I think I got your wiring path.
Should be good. Found the Info is in the Theft Deterent System area.
Start Enable Relay is located up above the pedals and behind the instrument panel fuse box. (feel/Listen) for the click)You say it clicks? Passkey good.[img]smileys/smiley2.gif[/img] skip some thinking.
Wires from the relay:
Blk/white wire goes to the passkey module which if you have a good key will provide the ground side of the relay coil. Yellow wire out of the Relay switch goes up to your Park/Neutral position switch PRNDL then back down straight to starter solenoid on starter.
BETTER DETAIL
The power path comes from the start position in the ignition switch and then splits.
First side of split.
one path out to theI/P fuse location 1A, 10amp fuse then outthrough a purple wire to the Start Relayactivation coilthen back out the relay via the Purple input to passkey module. The module provides the needednegative side of the Start Relay coil when the key is correct. Yours proubbly works.
The other side of split
Yellow wire out of the ignition switch goes to the Relay switch contact points (if activated) then goes up to yourpark/neutral PRNDL steering column switch(make sure your in either park or neutral)and then out of it on a PURPLE wire straight out to the starter solonoid.
CHeck for power on those yellow wires of the Starter enable Relay while trying to start. One side is input, the other activatedoutput during start.[img]smileys/smiley10.gif[/img]
If Voltage durning start is there the Yellow goes on to PRNDL (Park/Neutral) switch, then changes comming outon PURPLE wire which goes on to Starter Solenoid on starter.
Hope this applies. [img]smileys/smiley20.gif[/img]
MY BEST GUESS.... RELAY is bad.. hot relays don't work well and has to cool.. [img]smileys/smiley14.gif[/img]
An aid may be temporarily disconnect the solenoids large wire to battery cable. Save wear and tear on the starter and bendix and hopefully you can still hear the solenoid click.
Good luck<BR style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">
Bass
Edited by: bassasasin
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