My friend's 1995 in Wichita, KS dies after it warms up. If you let it cool off for 2-3 hours it will start and you can drive it again until it warms up. He has not hooked it up to code reader yet. He's going to go use one from an auto-parts store. It does set the check engine light. He tried a new "whatever it's called" that the coil packs sit on, but that changed nothing.

Do you know if this car uses OBD II? I'm looking forward to finding out which trouble codes are set. He has the 3800 v6.

Edited by: village

 

I'm dealing with the EXACT same problem...in fact if I lived in Alaska, I would have a reliable vehicle because it loves running in the cold.

When it is below 50 degrees, the car runs great.
Exterior heat + Engine Heat = car that don't like to run.

I just had the intake manifold replaced today. I go to get it from the shop, and the thing is POURING white smoke. I guess the mechanic forgot to put on the PVC valve. Nice, I know... But they "fixed it", no longer smoking everyone out in town...and I get on the road.

Anyway, the manifold did help performance, until she was warmed up... and then the "Check engine light" came on. I got about 10 miles away, and then when I came to a stop, so did the engine. It did this about 3 more times.

It is now starting to stutter here and there... If there are any suggestions, please help us!! I'm going to look into the other posts to see if there is anything similar.

Thanks!

She's a 94 with a 3800 V6 also.

Edited by: Ms. Leia

 

OK let's stick together until we figure it out. I looked through the posts a few weeks ago and didn't find anything, but I may have missed it. I'm going to look again over this coming weekend and early next week. I have seen many references to a "faulty" crank position sensor that may cause this sort of problem, but I have not found anything conclusive. I live 1.5 days from my friend, so I'm doing this remotely...

My friend said that he can "borrow" a code reader from a local parts store by putting down a $150 deposit. He gets the deposit back when he brings the code reader back. Not a bad deal if you ask me. Maybe you can do that too?

 

Well...I think my problem has been temporarily solved...I may have to drain the tank.


I remembered the last time this happened I had some bad gas. I went out and got some fuel additive.Go figure, the car is running fine. For now. But yes, we'll both have to keep going on this a bit further and see what the problem really could be. I know I can't be that lucky.

 

O.K...


I may be totally wrong, but this may help you a bit...I was too angry yesterday when I left the garage, but my hubby stopped there on the way home today and they told him that it is a cam sensor. That is the code they found when they ran the diagnostic.


I hope that helps you also. I'll let you know the results whenI can.

 

I'll let you know what we find out when my friend gets the code reader. I'm not sure how much work a cam sensor involves, but maybe I'll find out.

 

I found this...looks like a pain in the rear.


http://www.trustmymechanic.com/forum/post-34380.html

 

Cam sensor Circuit has the CRANKshaft sensor attached to it so Crankshaft sensor will throw that code 41.
I wrestled with that and finally got it fixed. Your symptom is typical as long as it is a run or not run situation and not a engine miss type symptom.

My solution to the code 41 was the CRANKshaft sensor.

Edited by: bassasasin

 

Bass

What was the problem that you found? Cam or crank sensor?

If I remember correctly, he said his car will run 15 minutes or so before it dies, it takes hours before it will start again, then it runs 15 minutes, dies and the same pattern all over again.

I just tried calling him, but he wasn't around. I'm waiting to hear if he got the code reader or not. Do you know if the 1995 is obdII ?

Don

 

village said "Do you know if the 1995 is obdII ?"

If you look under the hood near the top of the radiator there is a sticker that shows if it is a I or II. I have a '95 and mine is a I. Not sure if there was a II in '95 or not.
No one but the dealer here has a reader and they charge an arm and leg to check it.
The parts stores I checked with all have the II checker. I gotta trade for a newer car!! ha.