Appears you installed good quality parts.
The tach gets it's signal from the crank sensor and to me that would confirm the crank sensor is not sending a consistent signal to the ign module. If the back of the crank pulley is clean and in decent shape , it appears the crank sensor is causing the problem.

 

hi guys ,, sorry for taking so long to get back here ,, been kinda busy with other things

i think i can safely say that the ignition module and the coils,,ARE NOT the problem,,changed the whole unit out,,still running the same

neither one of you guys have even mentioned the injectors,, so you don't think there could be a bad 1 or 2 ???

and i was looking at the crank sensor,,man is it gona be a supper size pain to get that thing off,,unless i can go through the wheel well,, i need to set down with this thing and and see how this needs to happen

i'll be back

ocharry

 

If you decide to go after the Crank sensor,get the car up on jack stands after you loosen the serp belt.
Then remove the R/F wheel, behind that you should see a plastic grille that you can remove to gain access to the pulley & bolt. The crank sensor is located right behind the pulley at about the 2 O' clock position. You could get lucky and the pulley may just come off without too much trouble even without a puller. Once off you will see how simple it all is. As pafman stated , you need to get that sensor correctly positioned so it doesn't get hit by any of the notches on the pulley. You can get it pretty close and once you are satisfied it won't contact anything on the pulley you can finish snugging it up. The rest , if you were lucky getting the pulley off , will usually go back on fairly easily.

 

how many miles are on it now?

 

hanky;

well i will probably wait until Easter weekend to try this,,i have a few days off and i wouldn't have to hurry and get it back together that way

so when i put a new sensor on,,,does it need to be within a certain range of the reluctor to read the breaks?? kinda like the magnet on a small engine reading the flywheel??? sounds pretty much the same,, the sensor is reading the breaks or notches inside the balancer and sending that info somewhere to be LOL decoded

is closer better?? for a stronger signal,,,or if i get it in the .060 gap range good enough?? or will the new one go back on in about the same place and work fine??


pafman;

when i got the car it had 63500 miles on it and now it has 78300 on it

so i have put about 13000 miles on it and it has been doing it all the way


i did notice while i was changing the coil pack out and going over everything else for the 50th time,, i never picked up on this before,, looks like one of the injector plugs have been changed,,it's different than the other 5,,,the wires look like the have been soldered and heat shrink,,, my question is could this thing be wired backwards,,like positive where the negative should be,,,will that make a difference in how the injector works???

let me know what you think about this new development,,,or if it matters

thanks

ocharry

 

You don't have too much room to play with, just try to get the slots in the sensor somewhat centered with the reluctor tangs and that usually works just fine.
As far as the injector wiring , I would just make sure that I had the same color wire in the same side of the plug as all the other injector plugs.

 

In my 1999 gave simular problems caused by the crankshaft sensor ( stumble while running, start to die then went on.). It did not give a code for a month..On mine it wouldnt start about an hour after driving it. wait a little longer and it would start..I think it was do to the heat build up under the hood..this was in the summer which made it worse..Anyway I could not get the nut off the crank ,had the local service station do it for $75 labor..not bad..Good luck

 

ok guys i will give it a good look and see what i need or how i'm gona proceed with this

i have been looking at a new puller-installer set up,, may need to get one of these to help with replacing the balancer,,and it sure would be nice if it didn't take gorilla pressure to get it off and back on

i will be back with the results of this

cross your fingers,, i have mine crossed

ocharry

 

I'm back

well crank sensor is new and installed................NO CIGAR

dang it,,, that didn't do it either,,,the motor does seem to start better,,but still has the symptoms

anything else you guys can think of???

i'm lost

ocharry

 

The fact that it happens both at low idle and over 45 MPH, to me would eliminate the EGR system.
I am beginning to wonder about why that injector plug was changed or wiring repaired.
What you might try is wiggling the injector plugs and wires while it is running and see if you can get any kind of noticeable action while trying this.
Another thing you could try since we are grabbing at straws would be to replace 3 injectors. If no change switch with the other three. It seems like a lot of work ,but not bad compared to what you have already done. Just make sure you use new "O" rings each time.
You have aroused my interest and curiosity and I will try to suggest some tries that won't cost too much to do.
If you don't get any results soon it could always be the PCM.
Sometimes you can duplicate the problem using a hair dryer to heat the PCM and see what you get, as long as you don't try to fry eggs on it.