Please help! Mystery prob w/96 PA
#1
11-26-2007, 03:45 PM
Hello all,
I've hit a brick wall and thought I'd throw this out there for all Buick owners or buick/GM gurus to mull over. I have a lovely 96 PA ultra. A few minor issues have cropped up in the last 2 months but the biggest problem which occurred 2 weeks ago takes the cake. I'll explain the symptoms in order as some of the events may be connected to one problem. My keyless entry clickers stopped working despite replaced batteries. I assumed that because the car is over 11 years old they just died and I'd order new ones soon.About the same time the passenger window switch on the driver control panel stopped working (still works from passenger side) then to top if all off, 2 weeks ago the car wouldn't turn over. I assumed it was the starter and none of the events were related. Had the old one ripped off and tested and a new put on. Sure enough, the old starter was putting off tons of odor and cranking out too many amps. I was hopeful. $120 later my car still wouldn't turn over. I checked all the fuses. I came across only one fuse that looked slightly corroded. It was a fuse for VATS. I had no clue what this meant so I popped this phrase into google "VATS starter." It pulled up results for a resistor chip causing no start due to the vehicles anti theft system. A sort of silent alarm. I spoke with a buick guru (a retired GM plant worker) and he suggested that I solder a matching resistor (w/in 2% of the OHMS of the reading off the key) under the steering colum to the wire connected to the VATS and ignition. This will bypass the need for the resistor on the key to send a signal to the brains to enable the starter and fuel pump. I removed the panel under the steering colum and found that instead of one orange wire there were about 10. I thought it too frightening a task to undertake for some one who's never done this sort of thing. So I starting making phone calls. Having already spent a bit on the new starter, I was reluctant to have the car towed just anywhere and spend more money for some one to say "it didn't work but you still owe us x amount." So more research ensued. I spoke to my mechanic who suggested I reset the system with the key in the door. I've tried this once but I'll try it again. I replaced the fuse for the VATS and still the car won't turn over. Now, here's the kicker, if in fact it's something as simple as a faulty resistor on the key (I have the keys with the "chips") why would both my sets ofkeys not work? And why is it the fuel pump starts up like the car is set to start but it won't crank when the common signal of a faulty resistor key is no fuel pump no starter? Why does the security light flash the entire time you have the key in the ignition if it's something as simple as a bad ignition switch? Everyone I've spoken to has a different answer yet no one wants to mess with it. I'm trying desperately to save myself some cash and pinpoint the problem with out disabling the factory security system (you're looking at $300+) and with out replacing modules that could cost even more for everyone to tell me it's still not cranking. Any one at all ever heard of such a problem? It's beyond me, my mechanic, the guys at the parts store and the guys at the after market security system shop. What theheck is wrong!!?? I love my car but I have never seen such a complicated set of symptoms. I am hoping the solution is simple though my gut tells me it's more like $1,000's and involving very brains of the car.
-KatieEdited by: Ultra lover
I've hit a brick wall and thought I'd throw this out there for all Buick owners or buick/GM gurus to mull over. I have a lovely 96 PA ultra. A few minor issues have cropped up in the last 2 months but the biggest problem which occurred 2 weeks ago takes the cake. I'll explain the symptoms in order as some of the events may be connected to one problem. My keyless entry clickers stopped working despite replaced batteries. I assumed that because the car is over 11 years old they just died and I'd order new ones soon.About the same time the passenger window switch on the driver control panel stopped working (still works from passenger side) then to top if all off, 2 weeks ago the car wouldn't turn over. I assumed it was the starter and none of the events were related. Had the old one ripped off and tested and a new put on. Sure enough, the old starter was putting off tons of odor and cranking out too many amps. I was hopeful. $120 later my car still wouldn't turn over. I checked all the fuses. I came across only one fuse that looked slightly corroded. It was a fuse for VATS. I had no clue what this meant so I popped this phrase into google "VATS starter." It pulled up results for a resistor chip causing no start due to the vehicles anti theft system. A sort of silent alarm. I spoke with a buick guru (a retired GM plant worker) and he suggested that I solder a matching resistor (w/in 2% of the OHMS of the reading off the key) under the steering colum to the wire connected to the VATS and ignition. This will bypass the need for the resistor on the key to send a signal to the brains to enable the starter and fuel pump. I removed the panel under the steering colum and found that instead of one orange wire there were about 10. I thought it too frightening a task to undertake for some one who's never done this sort of thing. So I starting making phone calls. Having already spent a bit on the new starter, I was reluctant to have the car towed just anywhere and spend more money for some one to say "it didn't work but you still owe us x amount." So more research ensued. I spoke to my mechanic who suggested I reset the system with the key in the door. I've tried this once but I'll try it again. I replaced the fuse for the VATS and still the car won't turn over. Now, here's the kicker, if in fact it's something as simple as a faulty resistor on the key (I have the keys with the "chips") why would both my sets ofkeys not work? And why is it the fuel pump starts up like the car is set to start but it won't crank when the common signal of a faulty resistor key is no fuel pump no starter? Why does the security light flash the entire time you have the key in the ignition if it's something as simple as a bad ignition switch? Everyone I've spoken to has a different answer yet no one wants to mess with it. I'm trying desperately to save myself some cash and pinpoint the problem with out disabling the factory security system (you're looking at $300+) and with out replacing modules that could cost even more for everyone to tell me it's still not cranking. Any one at all ever heard of such a problem? It's beyond me, my mechanic, the guys at the parts store and the guys at the after market security system shop. What theheck is wrong!!?? I love my car but I have never seen such a complicated set of symptoms. I am hoping the solution is simple though my gut tells me it's more like $1,000's and involving very brains of the car.
-KatieEdited by: Ultra lover
#2
11-26-2007, 04:18 PM
I should also mention a little history on the car. In the summer I noticed a small oil leak in my drive but not a significant oil loss. I popped open the hood and saw oil puddles up on the engine (around the plug wires.) I took it in and found out I had a leak around the oil pan gasket which was dripping slowly in the drive when the car was running. Had it replaced. Also found out there was a leak up top some where that my mechanic opted not to repair at the time as it would have cost me more than I could spend. Don't know if this oil leak has anything to to do with the no start issue. As soon as I can get the car running I'm taking it in to get the other leaky gaskets replaced. But in the meantime...
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