Hello to all,


I have been searching thru pages and pages of information trying to find something about the problem(s) I am having with my 1996 PA Ultra. I apologise if this topic has been discussed and I overlooked it.


I bought my PA a little over 2 years ago. It had 68,000 miles on it and seemed to be running fine with a few minor problems I had fixed immediately. About a year ago I noticed it started running rougher than usual. Everyone I talked to said it was probably dirty injectors or condensation in the gas tank. Not being a repair girl or car buff I have been treating the fuel with Lucas injector cleaners or Heet gas treatment about every 2 fills up. The problem will go away (never shows up when it's at the mechanics) and everything will run smoothly... but then all of the sudden it starts running rough again. More recently the check engine light came on followed by the traction control light flashing on for a few secs then off again. I had Auto Zone read the car's computer and I was told it was probably a bad vaccuum hose. So I had my friend check it out for me. Sure enough there was a corroded vaccuume line connector (not sure the right terms) going straight into the engine and he replaced it for me. The check engine light hasn't come back on yet but the engine still makes very strange noises. It has a loud idle and makes a clunk noise every once in a while. Not to mention myMPG has decreased but thiscould be partially due to needing to change the plugs and wires which areprobably old.


Also, about a year ago I was driving and the car lockedup and died. I coasted to the curb, popped the hood and saw that the tensioner pulleyhad broken off and the belt had shredded and causedorange fluid to pour onto the ground. I had the car towed to a local shop and theyreplaced the tensioner pulley, the belt and the steering pump which they told me had a hole poked in it from the belt. Ever since they replaced the steering pump the steering has made a loud whinning noise especially when my foot is on the brake. I have checked the fluid from time to time and it seems to be fine. Any suggestions what it could be?? I don't know if this is normal since it's my 1st Park Ave.


Last mention, my heated seats stopped working last year. I replaced the fuse and nowthe passenger works but not the driver (they worked when I bought it in 2004.) The light comes on like it's working but no heat. This is not as serious a problem but it's one more thing that is annoying me about this car. I bought it for $5,500 and have put over $2,500 into in 2 1/2 years (besides regular maintience) and would like to have this car running smoothly again. I love this car but am banging my head trying to get it to run smoothly. I don't want to have to pay another grease monkey just for them to tell me there is nothing wrong with it when I know there is!!! [img]smileys/smiley7.gif[/img]


Please help me!!! Thank you!Edited by: Ultra lover

 

Running Rough
</span>Vacuum still could be a problem.
Plugs and wires usually fail all the time, meaning, rough idle, a power band failure, meaning it runs rough at a throttle position. Something you proubably would have every day.
Coils and ignition modules have a tendancy to fail at temperatures. Fails when hot, cold etc. causing rough running.
Start with plugs and wires. Thenif thats unsuccessful get one coil and swap it out to each position.

Engine fatal stalling</span>
usually is ignition, Cranksensor, Ignition module, wiring to same area. Less usual but still a prospect is fuel pump at temperature. There has been a bad coil shorting the ignition module that has caused this but not very popular. To determine fuel or ignition, during a stall the ignition spark needs to be quickly checked for before it returns to normal.
</span>Traction Control Light </span>
</span>Usually this is a wheel hub sensor or tire pressure. Make sure the pressure is 30psi all around within one pound. If sensor is intermittent it could be wiring or the sensor. They can be looked at by a good brake shop for a fee. Usually $80 for just a diagnosis, unfortunately.
Idler Pulley Disintegrated Power Steering Pump</span>
</span>My belt did the same job on my power steering pump after a water pump pulley failure, your not alone there.
</span>Power Steering Noise
Usually air is the culprit on power steering noise. Normally to purge the air, turning the steering wheel full left and then full right slowly helps. Often it takes a bit of time to get all the air out. Pumps also can get nosy, even a replacement reconditioned pump can be noisy.
Heated Seats </span>
</span>Fuses normally are a problem but some have found bad switches. Through a bit of bad design, the switch is often shorted by the crushing of the seat by a heavier person and having the same problem myself I insulated my switch better after taking the seat apart.

Good Luck


</span>

 

Thank you so much for your reply! Everything that you described fits perfectly with the problems I'm having. I will replace the plugs and wires as soon as possible. I noticed when looking at the engine yesterday with my friend that one the wires has been replaced with a mopar brand wire different from the rest. Really strange. Not sure when that was done.


We checked the tires and they were over inflated by 6 lbs!!! I couldn't believe it! All this time I was trusting the quick lube to keep those things in check but I should have checked them myself. I sincerely appreciate your knowledge and will put your solutions to the test. I look forward to having my car running at it's peak again.

 

You've gotten good advice!


I agree that you should replace your ignition wires. For some reason, they seem to be very short lived on these cars. Plugs could be bad too, but they are not commonly the problem. Next thing to look atis probably coils, but at that point you might be wise to take it in to a dealer or GOOD mechanic, so that you don't waste too much time and money guessing. I think your '96 does have the OBD II, which with the right diagnostic equipment, does a good job of pinpointing problems.


I also agree that the first thing to check on your ABS is tire pressure. Over pressure (many think that they should be at the sidewall pressure, which is actually the maximum, not the recommended) would not causethis problem, but variances could. If theeffective rolling radius of the tires varies, the vehicle will show a fault and trip out ABS. I've even seen where different brands or tire wear can cause this. Second thing to check is the wheel sensors. They are exposed to a lot of abuse. Sometimes just unplugging and cleaning them helps. Sometimes changing the brake fluid helps. Keep in mind that, even if you solve the problem, the fault light will not go out immediately unless you clear the code by disconnecting the car's battery.


Again, at some point, you have to bite the bullet and pay for the diagnosis. They will, of course, want to do the whole job, but if you're fair to them (pay for the diagnosis),some will take pity and let you do the grunt work.Edited by: MrBSS

 

It's been 3 days since we corrected the tire pressure... the traction light hasn't come back on since. As for the plugs and wires they are next on the list. Just waiting till my next paycheck as I'm sure good wires and plugs for the supercharged 3800 are probably pricey. I need to learn to pay more attention to things as I could swear the wires on the car were from the dealer put on by the previous owner and now misteriously they are mismatched no name and mopar wires. I don't know for how long I've been driving with these in there.


Any recommendations of optimal plugs and wires to use in thesupercharged3.8L Ultra?


We're gonna tackle the heated seat switch tomorrow if the rain allows as well as bassasasin's recommendation forfixing the squeekysteering pump.

 

I don't think the wire brand is critical..just don't buy the cheapest ones out there. My Buick dealer discounts parts to me (I just had to ask, but I DID buy the car there), so I have Delco.


You might not be aware that these cars originally had metal heat shields around the boots that go on the plugs. They also have corrogated plastic split tubing on much of theplug wiring. Many times people discard these, but they are there for a reason, and I would recommend that you replace them toextend the life of your new wires.


Chances are that the wire will solve your problem, but if you can do the plugs at the same time it would be good. Again, these engines are not too sensitive to plug brand. I would stay away from the "gimmick" types with multiple electrodes, etc. I had AC Rapidfire (platinum) plugs on my old Ultra, and have AC Iridium on my new one. They are very good, but expensive. Biggest advantage is long life (extended mileage), so they may not be worthwhile for you (much cheaper to just change 'em out after 40 - 50,000 miles).

 

OK. Here is what I have learned so far about the rough idle. My friend checked over the vacuum hoses and replaced a connector that was basically decrepit. The check engine light went out for about 2 days. But came back on. Auto Zone's diagnostic equipment (don't know how thorough they are) read that it could be any on the following problems causing the light to come on.
1. Vac hoses
2. Throttle body intake tube loose
3. BARO barometer MAP defective
4. VAF/MAF sensor dirty/defective
The strange thing about this is that when the light is out and the car seems to be running fine, I'm driving along and all of the sudden I feel a drag/clunk in the engine and accelerating makes it seem like the car might die but then it stops choking and works itself out. The light doesn't come on until the next time I start the car and it runs like an oldcarwith acarburetor in need of a rebuild. Then after driving a while it goes out and the car runs smooth till the next time. Also, occasionally and simultaneously I might add, the traction control light goes on then off, then on the off. The tires are at their correct air pressure and I can't figure out what the check engine/rough idle has to do with the wheels and it's sensors. I amthinking it has to be a coincidence because there is a strange noise that seems to be coming from the front wheels...sort of likethesound of a baseball card in the spokes on a bike wheel (no, there is nothing stuck in my wheel or hubcap that I can see.)
I used to work for a local Manheim car auction and advance auto parts and I don't trust any GMservice depts.within50 miles of my house. My trusty good ole boy mechanic always tells me there is nothing wrong (although this time it would be hard to ignore the rough idle and bright check engine light.) I am praying it's not something expensive as I have already spent literally thousands on this car besides regular maintenance costs. I am losing a little faith in GM though I've been a GM fan since I was 16 and drove my 1978 Olds 98... that was the best car I've ever owned. lol! Nothing ever went wrong or cost an arm and leg to fix.According to Consumer Report magfrom 3 years back, '96 was a good year for Buick but I'm having some doubts. I don't know what else major and expensive could go wrong with this car. Any feedback as to your opinion of my car's crisis would again be helpful and appreciative. I trust my mechanic but sometimes I wonder just how much he knows about a complex car like the PA ultra.
As for replacing the wires... I am waiting on the money for that (I'm a woman you can't possibly expect me to do it myself!)I should hope that should improve many things with it's running smoother.It is the1st step I will take before I submit my poor car and pocket book to the wretched dealership.

Sorry for the rant. I am very stressed out about my baby having problems.

 

I know the feeling! I get pretty crabby when mine has a problem.


Haven't done it in a while, but I think spark plug wires are fairly cheap (~$20). Of course, sometimes that's a lot.


Actually, although there may be good reasons that you can't replace the wires yourself, being a woman is not one. Dexterity is much more important than brute force. All you have to do is take a couple pictures and replace things the same way (except add the shields if they are missing). [I hope I don't offend you; I've become a bit of a feminist since I have a daughter--she cannot use that as a reason.]


My experience with two Ultra's and other posts here tells me that new wires will go a long way toward solving your problems.


That's not to say it will solve everything. I'm guessing that you may need a new crankshaft position sensor, and then there's your rattles. Might bea CV joint (constant velocity U joint). Might be a bearing in the supercharger. I replaced these items on my '92 (which is the same body as yours). The ABS can sometimes be fixed by cleaning or replacing the wheel sensors, or bleeding the brakes (which few people bother with, but should be a part of regular maintenance). If it gets into more than that, it will get very expensive. Personally, I'd just drive it with conventional brakes at that point.


Good luck!

 

OK. Here's what happened over the last 10 days while my car was the shop. My mechanic talks super fast and writes really horrible but here's what went on as far I understood. He replaced the plugs and wires (acdelco OEM per request.)Said it looked like 2 weren't even working. Something about the metal being worn down or something. He also replaced the MAF sensor and said the weird noses seemed to be coming from the belts. So he did something to the pulleys and replaced both belts again. Seems like I'm getting belts replaced on the car about as often as I change the oil. I cleaned the heated seat switch with a dry tooth brush but haven't tested it out yet. The check engine light is off, the traction control off light is off and the car seems to be running fine. I still hear a noise from the front wheels like the sound of something stuck in a spoke. He checked the supercharger, the injectors and the O2 sensors and said everything seems to be fine. Last problem besides minor body/interior repairs is the windshield fluid light. The tank can be 1/2 full and the fluid low light pops on and off. 3 of the guys at the garage came out to tell me how nice my car was. lol! Even the owner who drove the car home to listen to the problems said he was inpressed by it's pep.


Many probably know this but I've been reading up on other problems with PA's and it seems a lot complain of wheel/tire problems. I have had Michelin's on my car for the last 40,000 miles and haven't had one single issue. They still look brand new with no signs of wear and everyone compliments how high end they are. Unfortunately I've picked up my sencond rusty nail... damn roofers! I guess a patch is in order again! I bought them at Sears. Michelin Harmony were on the car when I bought it and Agilty are what I had put on. I highly recommend these tires. They aren't cheap but they are worth every cent.

 

Yes you are right and no I'm not offended. I suppose I say I can't do it because I haven't had anyone show/tell me how. I understand a few bits and pieces on the mechanics and stats of an enginebut the only handy work I've done/know how to do is change a battery, tires, air filter and light bulbs. I did manange to change the oil in my 78 olds but that was with a simpler engine configuration and I don't know that I'd attempt it with the Buick only cos it's lower to the ground and lot more expensive to fix something I could break. lol!