I have gotten my engine really clean, but there are spots where i just cant seem to get. Like in the area behind theaccesorybelt, anddown sides of the valve covers. The wheel on the alternator???Any products or tips to help with these tuff spots?? Edited by: BPA1986

try "super clean" if its an old bottle, it may say "castrol super clean" but its the same stuff. it works great. comes in a purple bottle. that and a power washer are the best ways to get to the tough grease and grime.


but be careful. it is acidic, and can harm the paint if oversprayed and left on the paint. and it will supposively react funny with aluminum if left on for long periods of time. i haven't experianced that though. 5 minutes soak time will be perfectly fine.

BPA, Your success with engine degreasing can be relatively easy if you apply with good ol common sense and some tips from an experienced detailer. Choose the right degreaser. Its hard to find truly concentrated DG , mainly because it is so caustic, the inexperienced user could do real damage to property and self. Real DG is, "honest to god" 409 before its watered down 100 to one. This is no exaggeration! Suppliers dont want the liability or loss of profit cause 0ne 55 gallon drum of DG can yeild an unbelievable amount of DG. Ask any Chem. salesman! Go to a janitorial supply or detail supply. Buy one gallon of straight up DG. It''ll last a long time if u mix it properly. With this safety and info part out of the way...Wet down engine compartment with your hose/sprayer. Dont shoot high pressure water directly on coil packs or directly on Elec. conns. Spray 50/50 mix of real DG on engine and engine bay and allow to soak. Its a good idea to keep a can of Gunk around for stubborn or really thick grease. Youll find that most things can be cleaned with either water based or solvent/petroleum based cleaners. Spray gunk on heavy areas as well. While soaking go around engine bay with (Hot soapy bucket of Water &amp; Dawn) with wash rag and hand brush. Keep these cleaners off of exterior paint/keep fenders wet and rinsed. After a good scrub, spray it down good. I usually wash a motor that has ran for 5-10 min. shut off, scrub, spray. Start engine immediately, shut hood and continue hand washing vehicle. Warm engine will help dry fast/spot free thanks to wetting agent in Dawn+ heat. Now, spray down engine bay with armor all or the like. shut hood, let soak while detailing rest of car. (of course the engine is now off) Next time you pop the hood, engine will be evenly coated with dressing and ready to be wiped down with dry terry cleaning towels. The trick here people</span> is to wipe down all finishes under hood leaving dry ungreased finishes. Since surfaces are clean and dressed, (dont forget hoses etc) engine will look brand new. Remember, the key to concours detailing is not to make the car look like it was cleaned up, but rather, like it was never used/soiled. I have floored more customers by using the above technics. Allowing dressing to soak in while detailing rest of car greatly reduces time needed for underhood work. One customer, A Dr. John Looney said of his 12 cylinder Jag XJ12 series III sedan (Euro version) upon peeking under the hood...My god...!! it would take me a month of sundays to do that !! [img]smileys/smiley2.gif[/img] Pat Bogan... Details Unlimited ...Dallas, TX </span>

good points Pat, I have used clothes washing soap in the past, run motor to warm up, spray with hose, shake on Tide, and let sit. Come back in about 45 mins to an hour and rinse.

im going to try that.

i''ve always been scared to spray down my motor lol

Spray armorall on everything?? And don''t wipe off??