Another problem you say. Unfortunately. I will be investigating this further this week.

It appears that I have bearings that are wearing out on the front of this machine. As the speed gets faster the sound humming sound becomes louder and the pitch changes. If I slightly turn the steering wheel to the left, the noise goes away. Almost as if I was taking pressure off of the bearing. Has anyone had the spindle and hub area apart on these vehicles? Is it easy to work on? It has been too cold to attempt, but will have a chance later this week.

 

I used to take them apart and grease them on my Skylark.


You have to pry them with a crowbar.


Now I just press grease in where it spins and reverse the bearing when you re-install. All the scoring is on the top part of the race so mark the top before you remove it, then install the top on the lower side.

 

The hub/bearing assembly on these are supposedly a non servicable unit. Needs to have the hub and spindle replaced as one unit. Edited by: mybuick

 

OK, real simple. The front bearing will cost you around 100 buckaroos. Im not sure how the newer cars are, but my '93 uses a torx headed bolt to hold the bearing assembly in. I picked up (if I remember correctly) a torx 55 "wrench" as well as the bearing. You will also need (again not sure what the size would be for a newer vehicle) a large deep socket socket to remove the drive axl nut.


1)losen drive axl nut with car on ground.
2) jack up car, remove tire
3) remove caliper and hang to side with mechanics wire (you dont' have to remove it from the car...it makes a big mess)
4) remove brake rotor
5) with a rubber mallet, tap the drive axl to losen it from the bearing assy.
6) move hub assembly around till you can access the bolts behind it. there should be a little thru hole in the hub that you can stick your socket or torx bit in through.
7)remove the bolts. Should only be 3, maybe 4.
8)remove bearing and drive out rear dust seal.
9)install new dust seal and bearing.
10) bolt new bearing assembly in
11) install rotor, caliper and put tire on.
12) drop the car, and using a NEW nut (never re-use an axl nut what so ever), install that on the drive axl and torque it down.


now I give you my disclaimer....this is how i've done it on my '93 century. I don't know if yours is the same, but the idea is there. Hopefully they didn't change much over the years. Its pretty straight foreward and shouldn't take more than two hours. I've never worked on a front drive vehicle before and i've managed to change the drive axl one time in a few hours and change a front bearing another time in about 2 hours.

God Speed to You!


Al Conforti

 

Guess you should buy new then.