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Hi to the entire group, I'm probably the newest member posting to the <st1:place w:st="on">Park Avenue</st1:place> crowd.


I own a 96 Ultra that I bought almost 2 years ago with about 54K miles showing. The mechanicals, body, and interiorwere in very good shape, the electronics have proven to be a problem area - but this is for another thread.


About a week ago, I had a problem show up driving home where the engine had <st1:PersonName w:st="on">a l</st1:PersonName>ot of extra vibration. It was linear with engine RPM (although I didn't take it above 2500 RPM). I limped home and found the problem largely went away when the supercharger belt was disconnected. In fact I could turn the pulley by hand when the belt was off and hear/feel slack between the rollers and pulley (rocking the pulley back and forth). I took a chance on ebay getting a rebuilt supercharger for $195 + shipping. The offer also came with the necessary gaskets, so I feel the price was right. I know I'm taking some risk here, but the seller had several hundred transactions and he does a fair amount of volume on this particular product.


Where I'm at.... I have pulled and replaced the supercharger (okay4 times now) and have finally gotten the 2 small o rings to final seal so water doesn't get into the intake manifold. On the last reseal attempt, I left the garage for 30 minutes (lunch) and came back to find that coolant had backed out of the hole and spilled into the intake manifold. "Not good Mav." I clean up the water, reseal everything andthen go to start the car. Good thing enough water leaked into a cylinder, the starter couldn't turn the engine over smileys/smiley3.gif... I pull each plug out so I can geta path for the water to go when I crank the engine over (with the plugs out). In pulling the plugs out, I discover that plug #1 is broken. As a gearhead, I have never seen this before (32 years). Replacing the broken plug, I find the car still has a miss/hesitationsmileys/smiley7.gif. I’d almost describe it as a cylinder missing so I’m really running on only 5 good cylinders. I have checked all vacuum lines, electrical (connections, injectors, sensor), and ignition connections. I go to check the OBD I for codes.... and find they changed to the newer OBD II format. Good for me - it justifies buying more tools. smileys/smiley2.gif


So, while I'm waiting for the tool to arrive, has anyone else gone through a supercharger replacement with lessons learned?


Once I get through this, I'll post final lessons like how to fix the bypass actuator when the vacuum tubing doesn't come loose from the stem (actually it was both stems) and they break off. Then you find the part costs $212.60 from the dealer....

I did rebuild the drive end with parts from Eaton (who makes these for GM) through a Diesel service center. It was four or five years ago, so I may not remember all the details, but I didn't have your problems. I didn't do the back side either, as I was told that the wear is at the drive end.


How did you set the bypass actuator? There is supposed to be a tool, really more of a spacer, but I could never get one. I just faked it, but I was never sure if the actuation was exactly right.

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Update/closeure


I got the code reader in - finally. The only code was a P0300, multiple ignition misfire. After much troubleshooting, the cause was found. It was a bad Ignition Control Module - another $170 later, the car is finaly running.


MrBSS. To your question on setting the bypass actuator... I eyeballed it - same as you did.I figured the worst thing you could do is set it wrong so it activates earlier or later and all it would do is affect the performance of the engine. I;ll probably adjust it once I've driven it a bit and get a feel through the seat of my pants (if its opening too soon, the engine should be loosing boost and thus power).


Hope this could help someone.


Jerry