What could cause the 'service engine soon' light to come on? Would the 'change oil light' cause this, if I haven't changed oil yet and reset the meter? It currently idles a little rough, and may try to shut off! I haven't changed spark plugs, air filter or oil yet, 130K.Edited by: tegger

There are hundreds of things that can set the SES light, but I don't think the need to change oil is one of them.

If your car is running a little rough, then it is likely faulty plug. You could have Auto Zone diagnose it free to find out what the codes are. I had a similar situation and after new plugs installed, the problem was solved. You will still need to reset the service engine lite. Hope this help.

Hey, sorry I was not more helpful!


Koobiidoobii is probably right, but at 130,000 miles, you might also need new ignition wires.

Plugs and wires first. Then coilpack. Check codes is a must. Misfires may throw codes.



When plugs are pulled they can be examined for other problems. Chalky
white is glycol coolant contamination is an example. etc.. they should
be hot chockolate brown.



Good luck

I took it to AutoZone. They hookup computer and it gave them a code 43. He said it was a 'ignition control modular'. $137 later, I replace it, which it is under the coil packs. I started it and 'no check engine light'. Today I started it and the 'alternator light was on and discharging toward the red area'! I drove it less then a mile and then the alternator gauge pop back up too charging, and the 'check engine light' came on again. When I step on the throttle it bog down then took of again. I pull into the drive way and it all most die., but i hit the throttle and drove it to the garage! Could it be the alternator again? It my 2nd one from NAPA.

Well sorry about the ICM.. (EDITED 10/12//06)



Check for fuel octane and quality. Put High octane in it. Seems recently more folks are trying to put minimum 87 octane in the Parks and they arent getting the octane they think or some cars arent dealing with the bare minimum octane.


Obviously you have to give the alternator circuit a fix.





Here is the syptoms for problems in the ignition areas..


Ignition Coil or wire or plug.. A lopeing engine like a rythmatic miss.


Crankshaft sensor (gives code 41) no power then power and back but runs or stays running but drivable. .


Crankshaft sensor (gives camshaft code too) EngineDies and jerks.


If grounds and wires are ok... Camshaft sensor is cheap and easy.. It controls fuel timing .Since the CRANKshaft sensor kills the motor and the camshaft sensor just changes the fuel timing..


Also, there is another IM plug connection just over mid engine that the wiring from the ICM just so you know.


You can chill the sensors with cold water and see if it helps diagnose.

Book says you can pull the CAMshaft sensor connection if you have a non running engine and it then runs its a bad CAMshaft sensor..






Good luck.

Bass


Edited by: bassasasin

Well sorry about the ICM..


Check for fuel octane and quality. Put High octane in it. Seems recently more folks are trying to put minimum 87 octane in the Parks and they arent getting the octane they think or some cars arent dealing with the bare minimum octane.


Obviously you have to give the alternator circuit a fix.





Here is the syptoms for problems in the ignition areas..


Ignition Coil or wire or plug.. A lopeing engine like a rythmatic miss.


Camshaft sensor (gives code) no power then power and back but runs or stays running but not drivable</span>. .


Crankshaft sensor (gives camshaft code)</span> EngineDies and jerks.


If grounds and wires are ok... Camshaft sensor is cheap and easy.. It controls advanced timing </span>which is more like your symptoms. Since the CRANKshaft sensor kills the motor and the camshaft sensor just changes the timing</span>.. Also, there is a plug connection just over the engine that the wiring from the ICM just so you know.


You can chill the sensors with cold water and see if it helps diagnose.





Good luck.






sry dude but u are way off and giving out bad info. first off, the only purpose of the cam sensor is to control firing of the injectors. not to retard or advance the timing. and the n-a 3800 can run perfectly fine on 87 octane. the supercharged 3800s are the only one that need the higher octane. and the cam sensor is not a critical part of an obd pcm. and b.c he said code 43 and not a p.o. code, he prob has 93 or older. i have a 92 that i drove on a 600 mile trip with no cam sens sig, and got 24 mpg. and crankshaft sensor give crankshaft sensor code. NOT cam code. idk what u were talkin about there. and if it were to be faulty, then the engine wouldnt just die off. the eng wouldnt start at all. there would be NO spark.

Thanks for the update! My title say 92 yr. but when I bought it 10 yrs ago, dealer said it was a 93. I don't have a 'EGR valve' that anyone can find! I had 5 different people look for it and they were lost! 130K, I still haven't change the camshaft sensor yet. SES light still on but the car seem to run fine with the light on! Go figure, anyway, I'm still goin to change Cam sensor to see if it go aways before the snow comes!smileys/smiley4.gif

yeah if it is a 92 then no egr, 93 was the first year they implemented the egr. cam sensor should only be like 20-30 bucks. so i guess give it a shot. if it had it the egr would be just to the right of the front valve cover, if ur looking towards the back of veh.

Ur right Sam! We looked all over forthe 'egr'but never did see one like on my brothers 3800 G/Prix, where he show me his was! So now I know its a 92 instead, Thanks again! I run 87 octane and fuel injector cleaner once or twice a yr in tank with no problem!smileys/smiley14.gif

what kind do u use?

i use, love ,and recomend the lucas.
every product ive used by lucas has worked very well.

what kind do u use? STP or Valvoline

i use, love ,and recomend the lucas.
every product ive used by lucas has worked very well.

SamuelJackson... Boy was I wrong...getting better info now..
dug into the Service Manual (finally got one)..Got them confused a bit I guess just reading online stuff.. .(not much of an excuse is it?)

Camshaft is the fuel timing pulse.. "If lost it has a 1 in 6 chance of being right but will run..." (QUOTE)...Looses SFI.. sequential fuel injection.

HOWEVER... the Crankshaft sensor can throw a Camshaft code.. Been there done it. .. and causes halts and jerks and no starts..

But Thanks..
Bass

SamuelJackson... Boy was I wrong...getting better info now..
dug into the Service Manual (finally got one)..Got them confused a bit I guess just reading online stuff.. .(not much of an excuse is it?)

Camshaft is the fuel timing pulse.. "If lost it has a 1 in 6 chance of being right but will run..." (QUOTE)...Looses SFI.. sequential fuel injection.

HOWEVER... the Crankshaft sensor can throw a Camshaft code.. Been there done it. .. and causes halts and jerks and no starts..


Mine will shut off now and them when idling at a stop! Then re-starts with no problem! If it was a 'crankshaft sensor' it would not start, what several mechanics told me! So 'camshaft sensor' makes alot of sense!

But Thanks..
Bass

SamuelJackson... Boy was I wrong...getting better info now..
dug into the Service Manual (finally got one)..Got them confused a bit I guess just reading online stuff.. .(not much of an excuse is it?)

Camshaft is the fuel timing pulse.. "If lost it has a 1 in 6 chance of being right but will run..." (QUOTE)...Looses SFI.. sequential fuel injection.

HOWEVER... the Crankshaft sensor can throw a Camshaft code.. Been there done it. .. and causes halts and jerks and no starts..

But Thanks..
Bass







props to you bass. i hold much respect for a man that recognize when hes wrong. eapecially on an internet forum. hats off to ya.

I bought the sensor today at AutoZone. I took the bolt out of the old one and started tugging on it very little! It did not come out, so I decided to wait until Friday and try it again. Should it be hard to remove it? Should I remove the tire and shroud to do it? Some where they said to check the magnet to see if it is good!

Its juststuck..





There isa "O"ring seal on it proubbly a bit sticky..


I went in from the top but its a bit of a reach..


SCAREY?? .. maybe a bit of a twist will help..





Good Luck

OK, I got it out and replace it with the new one. Still have a 'SES' light on! I haven't seen/felt it do what it use to yet thou! I had to replace a 'bearing' in one of my struts bearing plate. This took care of some noise I was having when backing out of a parking space when turning.


I read in a Chilton manual on a 1992 P/A that it had a 'code # list' and a 42 &amp; 43 code would be the ICM. I also read about the 'crank sensor' and its states a dual Hall switch which needs to have a gap of 0.025. Is this between the interrupter ring and harmonic balancer or how is this measure the correct way when installing the new 'crank Hall switch'?





Its juststuck..





There isa "O"ring seal on it proubbly a bit sticky..


I went in from the top but its a bit of a reach..


SCAREY?? .. maybe a bit of a twist will help..





Good Luck

As for the crank sensor gap..


Its alot tougher replace job than the Camsensor.. but... a rubber band has been recommended put on the balancer wheel to set a good clearance.


Getting that wheel balancer off is the big task.


The codes worry me though.. usually a 41 for the CAMshaft/Crankshaft code.


You could just have a bad coil.. The CRAnkshaft sensor fails violently pretty much.. like jerks and complete stalls..


Good Luck

Thanks,


I'll go to AutoZone again and see what they come up with again, since I replace the cam sensor. I did not replace the magnet thou! The car is running fine so far, just still have the SES light lit all the time!smileys/smiley5.gif

Went to AZ and had them re-scan the SES code. This timethe guy said it was a 'MAF' sensor and/or problem in the electrical system! Go figure!smileys/smiley5.gif

Well that one is easy... its down there at your air filter.. check wires for voltage.. and Maf for ohms..





Good LUck.